If you’re looking for a Caribbean trip that mixes easy adventure, marine life and laid-back island living, Belize delivers in a way few places do.
We spent 10 days exploring Belize City, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, and this guide shares exactly how to do it, what to expect, and whether it’s worth it.
Getting to Belize (UK Route)
Getting there is a bit of a trek, but worth every mile.
We flew with Air Canada:
- London Heathrow → Montreal (~8 hours)
- Montreal → Belize City (~5 hours)
Montreal greeted us with snow and de-icing trucks… a sharp contrast to where we were heading next.
Belize City – A Short but Useful Stop
We arrived late, stayed overnight, and spent the next morning easing into Belize.
Belize City isn’t a polished tourist hub, but it gives you context.
What to do in Belize City (2–3 hours)
- Visit St. John’s Anglican Cathedral
- Walk to the Belize City Swing Bridge
- Wander the riverfront and colonial streets
After a quick local lunch of Jerk Chicken and Stew Chicken with Rice n Beans and coleslaw at Ms Pattys Belizean Food near the ferry terminal, we were ready to head to the islands.
Belize City to Ambergris Caye (How to Get There)
Option 1: Ferry (what we did)
We took the San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi:
- 1 hour 30 minutes
- $30–45 USD one way
- Route stops briefly at Caye Caulker
Easy, scenic and good value. This runs several times a day
Option 2: Small plane (did this for the return trip)
With Maya Island Air or Tropic Air:
- 15 minutes
- $90–130 USD
- Incredible reef views (sit right-hand side)
Ambergris Caye (San Pedro) – Island Life Base
We stayed at Best Western Grand Baymen Gardens, just a short walk from the ferry.
Unexpected bonus (or not):
It sits right next to the local airstrip.
From about 6:30am to 8pm, small prop planes buzz in and out. If you like plane spotting, great. If not… bring earplugs.
What Ambergris Caye feels like
- Golf carts instead of cars
- Sandy streets and beach bars
- Fresh fish everywhere
- A slow, easy pace
Most people rent golf carts, but we walked everywhere and had no issues finding food, drinks and beaches.
Snorkelling in Belize (Highlight of the Trip)
Belize is all about the reef, so we booked a trip with Lil’ Alfonse Tours.
And it ended up being the standout experience.
The Reef Experience
We headed out early morning about 8:30am, picked up a few others, and anchored above the reef.
Alfonse gave a proper, passionate intro:
- How to fit a mask
- How to breathe through a snorkel
- How to stay calm in the water
Right up to this time Jen – who just swims in bath temperature water – was thinking she would simply spectate.
But as people togged up with masks and snorkels, flippers and flotation vests, she thought ‘What the hell’ and decided to join the fun.
One by one we dropped over the side and, wow, what amazing experience it was.
Sure, getting used to hearing your breaths as you drop your head underwater and scan from side to side feels somewhat alien, and flipper power alone is an art to master.
But the reward was truly spectacular.
Alfonse led us over the reef and our eyes were greeted to a cornucopia of sea life amid the coral.
We saw striped and electric blue fish and imposing, torpedo-like Baracudas.
We swam through shoals, chased graceful Angel Rays and said hello to aged, lethargic turtles.
Every now and then Alfonse shouted that he’d spotted something, with the enthusiasm of an excited child, and he would dart down into the depths in hot pursuit.
It is surely an enthusiasm for the sea and its creatures he will have all his life, and is infectious.
We saw so much, but the best was yet to come.
And once you do…
It’s unreal.
We saw:
- Bright tropical fish in every colour
- Barracudas gliding past
- Rays drifting below
- Turtles cruising slowly along
Then came the big moment.
Shark Ray Alley 🦈
At Shark Ray Alley, the water came alive.
The origin of this place is that fishermen used to clean their catches here, creating a consistent food source that attracted both nurse sharks and stingrays.
Alfonse dropped some chum into the water and the boat was surrounded by mighty – but docile – 8 feet long nurse sharks.
We all dropped into the sea and watched the feeding frenzy in awe.
The big brown sharks glided by for food without a single care for us, and we were right alongside in touching distance.
One brushed against my hand and it felt like the roughest sandpaper. Best keep your hands away from his mouth though.
It was a magical experience, the kind you remember for a lifetime, enabled by a man with a lifetime of love for the sea.
Day Trip to Caye Caulker
After a few lazy days, we hopped back on the ferry for a day trip to Caye Caulker.
Getting there
- 30–45 minutes from San Pedro
- $25 USD return
First impressions
Caye Caulker feels:
- More backpacker
- More party
- More carefree
Immediately it was clear this place is an attractive party spot, with sandy streets and bikini-clad hen parties bombing around on golf carts.
From the little ferry terminal we strolled by numerous barbecue grills, souvenir stalls and ice-cream shops and went to The Split.
The Split
The main attraction is The Split, created by Hurricane Hattie in 1961
- Clear shallow water
- Bars and sun loungers
- People jumping in, floating, drinking
People seem to flock here for photo opportunities, sunbathing on the sand or grabbing a beer from a couple of bars.
We watched as a catamaran with young revellers arrived for a day’s fun in the sun.
Caye Caulker offers turquoise waters, fresh seafood, friendly locals and a relaxed vibe.
Food highlight: Fry Jacks
We stumbled on Errolyn’s House of Fryjacks.
Deep-fried dough stuffed with ham and cheese (sadly, bacon was gone thanks to some American lads).
Simple. Cheap. Delicious.
Overall vibe
- Turquoise water
- Friendly locals
- BBQ smoke drifting through the streets
- Very easy to spend a full day doing very little
Secret Beach (Ambergris Caye)
Another day, another plan.
We teamed up with a Canadian couple, hired a golf cart, and headed to Secret Beach.
What it’s like
- Beach bars everywhere
- Free loungers if you buy food/drinks
- Vendors offering kayaks and jet skis
The sea:
- Calm and shallow
- Slightly stony at the shore
- Refreshingly cold at first
Honest take
- Secret Beach is:
✔ Fun
✔ Social
✔ Worth a visit
But not the “perfect tropical beach” you might imagine.
More of a lively beach-bar day than a postcard paradise.
Costs (Realistic Guide)
For two people:
- Food & drinks: $40–100 USD/day
- Ferry: ~$50 return pp
- Golf cart: $50–70/day
- Snorkel trips: $50–80 pp
Belize sits in that mid-range Caribbean bracket.
Final Thoughts
Belize isn’t about ticking off endless sights.
It’s about:
- Being in the water
- Slowing down
- Eating local
- Letting the days drift
Ambergris gives you a base.
Caye Caulker gives you contrast.
The reef gives you the magic.
Planning a Belize Trip?
If you want help building something similar, I can help with:
- Flights & routing
- Island choices
- Hotels for different budgets
- Activity planning
Just drop me a message.