Bich Dong Pagoda and Mua Cave Viewpoint

Mua Cave, 5km from Ninh Binh, is set in a beautiful spot.

We paid our admission (100,000 vnd each) and first found a large koi carp pond fed by a serene mountain waterfall.

A stone staircase of 500 steps zigzags up an impressive peak on which perches a great stone dragon.

There is also a simple altar to Quan Am, Goddess of Mercy.

You have to be reasonably fit and watered for the climb, and wear shoes with grip for uneven steps that can be steep and slippery.

All the huffing and puffing is worth it for the views on top which include the Ngo Dong River snaking its way through Tam Coc

Ambitious climbers make it for snaps at the dragon’s head.

We did it, but the rock surrounding it was pretty perilous and it was not for the faint hearted.

Video from the Dragons Head

You can also climb a lower peak, where the order of the day was to twirl the Vietnam flag around before a breathtaking backdrop.

Back at ground level Mua Cave itself was a bit of an anti-climax, and you have to watch your head in the low but wide passage.

We rounded off the exertion excursion with a relaxing stroll on boardwalk criss-crossing sodden lotus fields.

Sadly the flowers had already been harvested but it was so peaceful, with views of the peaks we just conquered.

Another nice spot some 2km north of Tam Coc was Bich Dong Pagoda (free entrance) with its cluster of cave temples within pagodas.

We arrived to the exotic sounds of a bird of paradise, only to find an old lady around the corner trying to flog us a bird whistle.

Wish we had got one now, you could have a blast in a pub beer garden.

At the base of the attraction is the Lower Pagoda, before 100 steps lead you to Middle Pagoda and finally a short but steep ascent to Upper Pagoda.

Statues loom from each cave temple, and the scent of burning incense mixes with the mountain air.

At Tam Coc we stayed in very comfortable Westlake Homestay.

For a nice room with fan & ac, cavernous modern shower/toilet room, plus breakfast, we paid 18 pounds total for two nights and it was bang on.

Tam Coc itself is a vibrant little town with cafes, restaurants, bars and curry houses.

Tourists get a kick out of river trips amid the rice paddies in which rowers use their feet to row.

With a strong joie de vivre backpacker vibe it made us think of the early days of exploring amazing Thailand.

Lovely Vietnam is well and truly taking its share of the tourist buck