From Langkawi to Railay
Just 90 minutes. That’s all it took to ferry from Langkawi to Koh Lipe, Thailand—and thank the travel gods, the sea was smooth as silk.
KOH LIPE
We landed right on Satun beach, queued under the sun for passport control, and let the reality sink in: new country, new chapter. Not long after, a guy from our resort emerged through the buzz of arrivals and waved us over. Bags tossed in the back of his pickup, we climbed aboard and set off into the blazing heat.
A short, bone-jiggling ride later, we arrived at Chareena Beach Resort—a relaxed little haven nestled between the shore and a tree-covered hillside.
Think beachfront bungalows just steps from the sand, and others tucked high up the hill. Ours? Top of the hill. Ninety-six steps, no lift. Brutal in the heat, but worth it. The bungalow came with AC, a fridge, a comfy bed, and a nice bathroom. Bonus wildlife included curious lizards and an army of free-roaming chickens escorting their chicks around like feathered security guards.
Koh Lipe is a gem—small enough to walk in a day, beautiful enough to make you stay five.
Most mornings kicked off with a fiery curry breakfast (thank you, Chareena kitchen staff), followed by lounging on free sunbeds under shady palms. Dips in the warm turquoise water broke up the laze,
The vibe here walks the line between laid-back backpacker energy and breezy luxury. There’s diving, snorkeling, and enough chilled-out beach bars to make happy hour last all day. Some people basically lived in their swimsuits 24/7. Respect.
Evenings started with 2-for-1 beer deals, continued with fire shows at Monkey Bar (yes, they juggle with actual fire), and drifted into the chaos of Walking Street—a narrow lane jammed with sizzling food stalls, neon signs, shops selling sarongs and snorkelling masks, and a mix of music pouring from every angle.
Craving variety? You’ll find it. Thai, Indian, tapas, pizza, kebabs—plus, a casual display of cannabis products on sale like they’re snacks.
Nee Papaya Thai Food & BBQ became our go-to. Always packed. Always spot-on. Big bottles of Chang for 100 Baht (about £2.30) and a rich, spicy Massaman curry that had us plotting our next visit mid-bite.
We were based on Pattaya Beach but made time for Sunrise Beach and Sunset Beach. Both brought jaw-dropping views, calm surf, and postcard-worthy backdrops—think teal-blue waters, smooth granite boulders, and longtail boats humming in and out of view.
How to get to Koh Lipe
It hardly needs mentioning that Koh Lipe is an island, but it is worth noting that it is not served by an airport and that it is not possible to get there by car, bus or train.
The only available options are the Langkawi to Koh Lipe ferry or from Pak Bara or neighbouring islands along the coast. Keep in mind also that the number of ferry crossings fluctuates depending on the season and that Koh Lipe can only be accessed all year round from Pak Bara.
Koh Lanta
After five slow, blissful days, we reluctantly waved goodbye to Koh Lipe. But the adventure wasn’t over. A powerful 70-seater speedboat (four motors roaring) launched us north to Koh Lanta.
First impressions? Lanta is calmer. Wider beaches, fewer tourists, and a slower pulse.
We stayed at Triple Novel Lanta, a laid-back family-run motel just a short walk from the coast. Big bed, icy AC, and daily breakfasts that actually filled you up. The beach near us stretched on for what felt like miles—perfect for long walks at golden hour and quiet reading sessions under swaying trees.
There wasn’t a schedule. Just sun, sand, and the occasional stop at local eateries serving fresh fish and cold beer with zero fuss. The presentation in some places was so pretty you almost didnt want to eat it.
Railey Beach
When it was time to move again, we packed our backpacks and jumped into a shared van bound for Ao Nang. A car ferry took us across to the mainland, then came a series of transfers that, all in, took about three hours. Smooth enough, but definitely a travel day.
We bought longtail boat tickets on arrival and walked to the pier for the final stretch to Railay—a place that holds a special place in our hearts.
We honeymooned here over two decades ago, and even now, Railay feels like stepping into a dream. Towering cliffs isolate the peninsula from the rest of the world, making it only accessible by sea. It’s not technically an island, but it may as well be.
This time, we stayed at the Railay Princess Resort & Spa. Two pools, buffet breakfasts, and a room with a balcony (plus a warning from reception to keep our patio doors locked—because the monkeys know how to open them). No joke, one elderly-looking monkey did try. He stared at us through the glass, realized he was out of luck, and wandered off like an annoyed hotel inspector.
Railay has changed, no doubt. More people. More development. But somehow, it’s still magic.
Our days were an easy rhythm of sun and salt. Railay West beach brings those iconic sunset views. Railay East lots of eateries Our favourite—Phra Nang Cave Beach, with powdery white sand, a massive offshore rock rising like a monument, and cave shrines that feel otherworldly.
The sea was so warm it felt like stepping into a bath.
We made time to visit Tham Pranangnai (Diamond Cave)—a 200 Baht ticket gets you into an ancient limestone grotto, complete with a raised boardwalk and cathedral-like chambers glowing in low light. Haunting. Beautiful. Worth it.
Evenings brought more Walking Street wandering. A heads-up for future travellers: prices here fluctuate. Read menus before you commit. The east side’s smaller spots often offer better value and chilled-out happy hours. The Last Bar became a favorite—cold drinks, good music, no fuss.
Ao Nang
Eventually, we headed back to the mainland and settled in Ao Nang for the last stretch of the trip. We stayed at Navinda Krabi Resort, just a short walk from the beach and full of perks.
The highlight? A ground floor swim-up room—yes, you open your door and walk straight into the pool. There’s also a rooftop pool with views that made up for the fact that… the breakfast buffet was lukewarm. The food was good, just not hot. We raised it with staff and hoped for the best.
Those final days were slow and peaceful. We wandered along the seafront and tried a different restaurant every night—lots of Indian options here, and most were genuinely excellent.
And then, just like that, our month in Malaysia and Thailand ended.
But as always, we left already planning the next one.
Final Word
If you’re after a travel experience that’s equal parts breathtaking, bizarre, barefoot-luxury, spicy, sandy, and soul-refreshing—this route delivers. From ferry rides and fire shows to monkey encounters and cave exploring, this was the kind of trip that doesn’t just give you stories. It gives you reasons to come back.