When we left our sleepy bolthole and visited bustling Hua Hin we felt like Robinson Crusoe and Man Friday arriving at the mainland.
The seaside resort, an hour’s drive north of Sam Roi Yot, is a bustling metropolis of cars, pick-up trucks and motorbikes swarming on congested streets packed with shops, restaurants and shopping malls.
Having been dropped off in the thick of it, we grabbed a cold drink and asked the shopkeeper the way to the beach which, conveniently, was the road right opposite.
One thing about Thai drivers is they are blind to pedestrian crossings. So crossing a main road is akin to waiting for a gap at a grand prix and then pelting across as quickly as possible.
After a sea of beautiful smiles from massage girls lounging outside a plethora of parlours we found the sea.
A snack was in order. We chose Ketsarin Seafood, one of the many pier restaurants sticking out into the ocean. Mid afternoon, it was fairly empty. We ordered and thoroughly enjoyed some very large Tempura Prawns and a tasty prawn Pad Thai
From there it was a short walk to the beach, with large grey rocks jutting from the sand, which are the reason the town was given the name which in English translates to Stone Head.
This was Thailand’s first beach resort after a railway line laid in the 1920s provided access from Bangkok and King Rama VII based his summer retreat in the area. When the holidaymakers came a luxurious two-storey European-style hotel made of brick and wood accommodated them – formerly The Railway Hotel but known today as the Centara Grand Beach Resort and celebrating its 100th birthday in 2023.
This is the place which served as Hotel Le Phnom in the 1984 film The Killing Fields Its manicured lawns boast a selection of topiary animals to spot, some of which are 100 years old.
As the sun began to sink we adjourned to a busy corner café for a cold beer. Satay sticks sizzled next to us and people buzzed along on mopeds for a feed.
Hua Hin Night Market
With dusk gaining we found our way to the main Hua Hin night market. This is one of the important landmarks in Hua Hin. Shoppers were flocking to a myriad of stalls selling clothes, jewellery, street food, watches, sunglasses, ceramics and a whole lot more. The walking street of the market is closed to traffic and becomes a focal point for stalls. It is located where Decha Nuchit Road and Phetchkasem Road cross.
On a personal level I was gutted. Many years ago we found a great little bar. Tucked at one end of the market, hugging the railway embankment was the Railway Tavern. Every time a train went by the place rattled – like the scene in a famous spaghetti western in which an old timer had refused to relocate from his shack and the train company laid its track inches from his back door.
I regret to report the bar has gone, swept away with a facelift of the area, with nothing left behind but my memory of a very good night.
Cicada Night Market
We then grabbed a Tuk Tuk and swapped the organised chaos for Cicada night market a few kilometres up a sweltering road.
Cicada market has a large food area and live music. It is more of an artisan market, complete with artists and potters selling their work. It combines contemporary art, inventions, handmade work, home decorations, clothes, There was even a dad and his lad doing a shadow puppet show from behind a sheet, which got some toddlers quite enthralled.
The Market is divided into 4 zones. The first zone is the “A la mode & Idea Shop”, a handmade zone. Second zone is the “Amphitheatre”, the semicircle outdoor stage for live performances. The third zone is the “Art Factory”, which collects art products to sell at a reasonable price. Lastly, the fourth zone is “Cuisine”, which is a Thai restaurant and an international restaurant.
It was time for another cold beer at a bar just outside the market, and we researched a taxi to get back to our resort. I sipped my pint and Jen said she had ordered a car from Grab – Thailand’s answer to Uber. I asked when it was due and, before I could take a second sip, the answer was ‘It’s here’.
I have never known such prompt service. But we still made sure we finished our pints.
Long Lay Night Market
The next night we took a look at Long Lay night market, just along the beach from us at Sam Roi Yot. To the strains of a Thai rock band we surveyed ranks of street food stalls and finally had the courage to sample the fried insect one.
It turns out silkworms taste like oily, black peppery lumps.