3 weeks island hopping around Croatia – Hvar and Brac Islands

Hvar and Brac are two of the larger more touristy islands

Hvar town was buzzing when we landed at the harbour on a sunny Friday afternoon from Korcula via another smooth ferry trip.

Pristine white yachts moored at the quayside gave it the air of a millionaire’s playground as the suntanned rich and beautiful sauntered by with their ice creams.

Some of the boats in Hvar harbour
Some of the boats in Hvar harbour

We hauled our rucksacks to the bus station and, after a short wait, boarded the bus to Stari Grad which took us along the coast to our digs.

Having come from a scenic harbour apartment, at first we were a bit downhearted when we left the bus and threaded our way through a modern housing estate to our next stay.

But we were met by lovely host Marina, who showed us to our very pleasant apartment.

We needn’t have worried, the digs was just a short walk from pretty Stari Grad harbour, where we promptly strolled for a waterside beer and then a nice meal at a back street eatery. 

Stari Grad Harbour
Stari Grad Harbour
Another view of Stari Grad Harbour
Another view of Stari Grad Harbour

Stari Grad was a nice spot, and over the next day or so we chilled out and found a couple of stony beaches upon which to take in the rays.

On our last day we took the bus back into Hvar town and walked up to the Fortica (fortress) overlooking the bay.

It was fairly heavy going in the heat, but plod away and you’ll be fine. Dont forget to take water

Castle admission was 10 euros each, but it was worth it for the stunning views from well preserved ramparts which have stood their ground for hundreds of years.

Fortica rampsrts
Fortica rampsrts
View from top of the Fortress across to the Pakleni Islands
View from top of the Fortress across to the Pakleni Islands

There’s even a bar, and dungeons too if the drinkers get rowdy.

Fortress bar
Fortress bar
After a beer in the bar
image of the dungeosn
The dungeons, we didn’t end up in here, honest

On our last night our host Marina and her husband treated us to a feast of veal and vegetables Peka style, fish, salads and cakes washed down with copious beer and wine.

Marina and the Peka
Marina and the Peka

Having travelled all over the world, it was Croatian people who extended to us one of the warmest welcomes we have ever received and we were most grateful for it.

Early the next day we left our room, thanked our hosts and lugged our rucksacks onto the bus and back to Hvar town.

After a couple of coffees in a cafe next to the Tuesday market we boarded the ferry to our next port of call, the island of Brac.

We landed at Bol, an idyllic little harbour akin to some of the nicest we’ve seen in Greece.

And it was good news, we only had to haul our rucksacks a short way to the harbourside Kastil Hotel.

There, we checked in and found ourselves with a nice room and a small Juliet balcony.

The hotel is in a great location for the numerous waterfront restaurants and cafes overlooking a plethora of little bobbing boats.

After checking in we walked a fair way along to Zlatni Rat beach, also known as the Golden Horn beach, which juts out from the coastline in a triangle of shingle and has bars and eateries tucked away in the trees.

Zlatni Rat, otherwise known as the Golden Horn
Zlatni Rat, otherwise known as the Golden Horn

Interesting fact from The Rough Guide to Croatia, 2013: before the tourists all poured in Brac was dependent on the export of its milky-white mix of marble and limestone.

Uses for this include Berlin’s Reichstag, the high altar of Liverpool’s Catholic cathedral and the White House in Washington. As well as Diocletian’s Palace in Split. 

Later, for dinner, our hotel was in such a good spot we only had to stroll a few metres for a beer and food at a nice restaurant.

View from our restaurant table
View from our restaurant table

The next day we enjoyed a leisurely buffet breakfast of meat, cheese, vegetables, coffee and cake before we headed out on a walk along the coast the other way from the previous day.

We encountered a little monastery and tranquil cemetery as well as a suntrap pebbly beach.

Little monastery
A little cherub amongst the graves
A little cherub amongst the graves

A little further along the coast there was a bay for nudists, from where Jen hastily diverted Ben away like a sheepdog rounding up a naughty lamb. Too baaaaaad.