Visiting Guernsey, Herm & Sark: A No-Car, No-Stress Island-Hopping Trip

Planning a week in Guernsey? This relaxed Guernsey travel blog covers everything we saw and did—from coastal walks and WW2 tunnels to day trips to Herm and Sark. Whether you’re visiting with a dog or just want a peaceful UK island escape, here’s our full, honest itinerary.

Sunshine, Sandwiches, and Slightly Lost with a Dog

Looking forward to the many things to do in Guernsey we set sail from Poole Harbour under glorious blue skies. Spirits were high, the sea was calm, and we had a friend in tow—plus his four-legged sidekick.

Now, small warning for pet parents: dogs have to stay in the car for the ferry crossing. Not ideal, but you are allowed to go check on them halfway through the journey. Our furry companion seemed unbothered—though we suspect he was silently judging us for the whole thing.

Ferry arriving into Poole
Ferry arriving into Poole
Pilot boat following the ferry
Pilot boat following the ferry
Out into the Channel
Out into the Channel

Day 1: Arriving in St Peter Port and Finding Dog-Friendly Pubs

We arrived in St Peter Port in the early evening, all ready for holiday mode… until Guernsey’s very “character-building” one-way system had us looping around like the confused tourists we were. Eventually we found our accommodation—victory!—only to discover we needed a parking permit… which we couldn’t get until Monday morning.

Cue the Guernsey Classic: writing a slightly desperate “Please don’t fine us, we’re tourists and we’ll get a permit ASAP” note to stick in the windscreen. Spoiler: it worked.

Parking

  • All public parking in Guernsey is free of charge. However, most of the on-street parking and car parks are marked as disc zone – this means you must use a ‘parking clock’ to indicate your time of arrival. These clocks can be purchased on the ferry, at the Guernsey Information Centre in St Peter Port and at the Police Station.  

Once the car drama was semi-handled, we set off for a wander around St Peter Port—a pretty harbour town full of charm, steep streets, and more pubs than you can shake a pint at. The real mission? Find somewhere dog-friendly to eat.

Turns out, that’s trickier than expected. After a few hopeful attempts and a bit of aimless wandering, we eventually found a spot that didn’t mind a pup under the table. Beer in hand, we officially relaxed into the trip. The very friendly Ship & Crown, this became our local

Lovely old streets steep and cobbled
Lovely old streets
A blue post box with a crocheted toppper
A blue post box with a crocheted toppper
A quirky statue sat on a bench
A quirky statue sat on a bench

Day 2: Castles, Quaysides & an Unexpected Museum

Post breakfast, a very nice continental one, we strolled along the seafront and explored Castle Cornet—a solid half-day if you like views, cannons, and a bit of history without getting bogged down in plaques. Mke sure you are ther at midday for the firing of the cannon, its LOUD.

Castle Cornet walls
Castle Cornet walls
View back from the lighthouse to the castle
View back from the lighthouse to the castle
The portcullis at the castle
The portcullis at the castle

From there, we wandered down to La Vallette Underground Military Museum. Tucked into old German WW2 tunnels, it’s a compact but fascinating spot full of strange memorabilia and wartime oddities. Think “gas masks and postcards” energy. Odd, but memorable.

We dont have any pictures from here.

Day 3: A Detour to Herm (because Sark was sold out)

Originally we’d planned to head to Sark, but the sunny weather meant every other tourist had the same idea—and tickets were sold out. So we pivoted, literally, about turned and back down the jetty to the Herm ticket shop and hopped on a boat to Herm Island instead. Zero regrets.

Herm is car-free (as is Sark), which instantly gives it that magical, low-stress energy. Just beaches, footpaths, and the occasional quad bike used for deliveries. We walked the island’s edge, looped back through the middle, and grabbed a sandwich from a shop that seemed to be doing very well for itself on the only village green.

Simple. Peaceful. Very British seaside.

The first beach after the Ferry
The first beach after the Ferry
Sea so clear it could be the Caribbean
Sea so clear it could be the Caribbean
Another of Herms beaches
Another of Herms beaches
And another beautiful beach
And another beautiful beach
A tower in a field in the middle of Herm
A tower in a field in the middle of Herm
And yet another fantastic beach
And yet another fantastic beach

Day 4: Sark—Take Two (feat. Wind and Open-Air Toilets)

Next day we finally made it to Sark. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t get the memo. It was grey, damp, and just the right level of miserable to make us question our life choices.

First we tramped along the hedgerow lined lanes towards Little Sark and the memory of a tea shop we’d been to before. We didn’t find that one but another little open sided tea stop, selling toasties and tea in which we partook.

Cliff view of Sark
Cliff view of Sark
La Coupee, the bridge between Big and Little Sark
La Coupee, the bridge between Big and Little Sark
The beach at the bottom of La Coupee
The beach at the bottom of La Coupee

Before setting off on the walk back the men went in search of the toilet. When they came back with bemused looks on their faces I had to ask. The gents was an open air shack with a beer barrel urinal. Little did they know, the other side of that was an enclosed unisex toilet.

Still, Sark’s charm held up. Like Herm, there are no cars—just bikes, horse-drawn carts, a tractor or 2, and the sound of your own slightly grumpy footsteps.

View from Big Sark to La Coupee
View from Big Sark to La Coupee
The outdorr toilet
The outdorr toilet
A Sark traffic jam
A Sark traffic jam

Day 5: Driving Guernsey’s Coastline – Beaches, Bunkers & Viewpoints

With sunnier skies again, we took a drive around Guernsey’s coastline, ticking off WW2 observation towers, German gun emplacements, and other military leftovers that dot the island. Whether you’re a history buff or just like moody, dramatic views, it’s a surprisingly atmospheric drive.

Highlight of the day? Pembroke Bay. Absolute stunner of a beach—long, golden, and framed by low dunes. Easily one of the nicest we’ve ever seen in the UK (or anywhere, really). We also made a quick stop at Le Trepied, one of Guernsey’s prehistoric burial sites—brief but interesting if you’re passing by.

Le Trepied long barrow site
Le Trepied long barrow site
One of the many observation towers
One of the many observation towers
Climbing the steps
Climbing the steps
Guernsey's beaches are beautiful
Guernsey’s beaches are beautiful
Another gun / obssservation towe
Another gun / observation tower
This tower was huge
This tower was huge

Day 6: Guernsey’s Underground Hospital and the Tiny Little Chapel

On our final day, we hit two of Guernsey’s more curious attractions.

First up, the German Underground Hospital—a vast and slightly eerie complex of tunnels built during the occupation. Chilly, atmospheric, and definitely gives you that echo-y footsteps, mild goosebumps feeling.

Entrance to the underground hospital
Entrance to the underground hospital
One of the damp, dank tunnels
One of the damp, dank tunnels
Leftover hospital beds
Leftover hospital beds

Then we visited the Little Chapel—and yes, it’s actually little. Tiny, even. Decorated in broken china and seashells, it looks like something from a fairytale. Worth a peek, even if just to marvel at the detail (and the fact someone actually built it for real).

The outside of the Little Chapel
The outside of the Little Chapel
The interior of the Little Chapel
The interior of the Little Chapel
Stained glass windows in the Little Chapel
Stained glass windows in the Little Chapel

We wrapped things up with one last wander around St Peter Port in drizzly weather—nothing like that classic British send-off.


Final ThoughtsWhy Guernsey Is Worth the Trip

Guernsey surprised us. It’s got that charming mix of seaside calm, quirky history, and dramatic coastlines—with just enough quirks (like parking permits and outdoor loos) to keep things interesting.

Tips if you’re planning a trip:

  • Book Sark ferry tickets early if the weather’s good
  • Parking permits are a thing—sort it before arrival if you can, on the ferry would be best if they have them
  • Bring comfy shoes (and maybe a waterproof)
  • And dog owners—check which pubs and ferries are pet-friendly ahead of time

Quick FAQs: Visiting Guernsey, Herm & Sark

Can you take dogs to Guernsey?
Yes! Dogs are allowed on the ferry (but must stay in the car). Many places on Guernsey are dog-friendly—just check pubs in advance.

Are Herm and Sark car-free?
Yes. Both are completely car-free, which adds to their relaxed, slow-travel charm. Expect to walk, cycle or take a horse-drawn carriage on Sark.

How do you get to Sark or Herm?
Ferries run from St Peter Port to both islands. Tickets can sell out in good weather, so book early.

Best beach in Guernsey?
We loved Pembroke Bay—long, golden, peaceful, and perfect for a swim or walk.

We came for the views and a bit of quiet. We left with windswept hair, full SD cards, and stories about outdoor toilets and German tunnels. 10/10 would return.